Görüşürüz

Get ready for a sappy post.

You’ve been warned.

It is with both sadness and excitement that I write this post görüşürüz or “see you later.”  It is my final day in Istanbul.  I have lived in a tiny room overlooking the Black Sea for exactly one month.  Every day I awoke to a fantastic group of people.  Through attempting to navigate Turkish public transportation, exploring the markets at Kadıköy, and eating way too much cake at Bilir we grew extremely close.  I have met some truly incredible people that will be friends for life.  Aside from the memories and the promises to correspond, my Turkish has improved significantly and I was able to explore Turkey beginning as a tourist and ending as a local.

Last night we gathered at a restaurant in Şile where glass windows exposed the most beautiful view of the Ottoman lighthouse.  We ate calamari (still better in Seattle!), drank red wine, and laughed about who knows what.  As a food historian I recognize that food brings people together, and for the last month I’ve sat across the table from these incredible people and learned not only about Turkey but about their cultures as well.

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Mia is so lovely and brilliant, I am going to miss her so much!

Today we explored Istanbul for the last time this trip, although everyone has vowed to return.  Our first tour was guided by an professor who specializes in Ottoman sociology.  Instead of leading us around throngs of people flocking to the mosques we took some back alleys to explore the transformation of Ottoman architecture in the 18th to 19th centuries.  Our first stop was a mall (we think he said mall? it functioned more like an inn) which had a remarkable view of the city.  We wound through dank corridors where craftsmen used to sell their work and climbed onto the roof for this gorgeous view.  Does it look familiar?  This is also where they filmed the scene of Bond running on the rooftops in From Russia with Love.

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this door is older than the Unites States

After viewing the city from a building of questionable structural integrity we walked back through the markets to some buildings that exemplify Ottoman Revivalism.  As you walk along the streets you can look up and see ordinary buildings with Iznik tiles decorating the under side of roofs.  This is perhaps my favorite part of Istanbul.  The Ottomans were patrons of the arts and decorated every inch of their building so that you can always find something new, even in a post office.

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this post office was built in 1909. the symmetry shows modernity whereas the tiles and basilica shape speak to the Ottoman era. similar to the mosque, the immense size of the interior is meant to show the authority of the government rather than the prestige of Allah

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the legacy Ottoman hotel

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this is my absolute favorite mosque in Istanbul, this is the fourth time I’ve visited it this trip!

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can you spot the Iznik tiles?

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view from the restaurant

We stopped for lunch at a restaurant that overlooked the Bosporus and the Galata tower.  After eating I quickly ran through the market to grab some last minute spices.  Cross your fingers they will get through customs!  After this our professor who gave a lecture on “Istanbul in Movies” led us on a tour of the Bosporus.  It was a three hour tour that perfectly summed up our program.  We had an uninterrupted view of the mosques, palaces, and castles belonging to empires from the Byzantines to Ataturk’s Turkish Republic.  My favorite thing about being on the Bosporus is that the skyline has remained virtually unchanged since Ottoman times.  This means that attackers and merchants alike sailed up to this exact view.  Can you image how awe-inspiring and menacing it was?

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I would like to make a small aside here.  As we got on the ferry a large crowd filed out of the mosque and began rallying with Palestinian flags.  We waited on the ferry for about 45 minutes and watched the flags waving and listened to the chanting.  It was a remarkable sight.  It was refreshing to see Turks taking an interest in foreign issues and feeling a kinship with Palestinians when this has not always been the case.  I have been reading up on the tragedies in Palestine and it feels more real being geographically closer.  I really do think that if enough countries hold protests such as these we can demand change and make progress.  This picture is also very special because protesting is illegal in Turkey, so these people were ready to face tear gas and rubber bullets in the name of peace.

Now back to the cruise!

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my darling Froso who is from Greece.  she wants to get her PhD in Ottoman history as well, so we always have a lot to discuss!  We decided to say “see you soon” instead of “goodbye” and meet again in Istanbul

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you could say the trip was a little windy

Unfortunately I do not know much about the ensuing pictures.  Mia and I had such a wonderful time sitting near the edge of the boat taking in the sights that we didn’t hear the professor!  I think we had more fun this way, but that means I’m going to show you a whole bunch of castles that I don’t have the names for.

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one of Ataturk’s palaces that we passed

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the most whimsical mosque built for an Ottoman princess

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we cruised under quite a few bridges

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the least expensive house on the Bosporus goes for 10 million lira (roughly 5 million dollars) which is quite a lot considering the average Turkish salary is $12,000 American dollars

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the magnificent Ottoman castle. there are two on either side of the Bosporus and they were used to throw cannon balls at ships trying to invade Istanbul

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seeing as this is also a food blog I should probably include something edible.  Mia and I shared this chocolate on our Bosporus cruise date but by the time we opened it the chocolate was completely melted!  Mia said she never thought she would be cruising the Bosporus pulling apart melted chocolate with a girl from Seattle. I said we would return together and do the exact same thing again!

I apologize for the short post and the lack of Byzantine princess jokes.  I need to wake up in three hours to catch my flight back home and I don’t have time to write more.  I wanted to thank all of you: friends, family, and people who follow this blog around the world, for taking the time to experience this with me.  Writing the blog was therapeutic for me when I was homesick and it was a great way for me to educate people about Turkey.  The blog won’t be receiving new posts until I return to Turkey, which will hopefully be soon.  Until then: afiyet olsun!

 

 

 

10 Ingredients Found in Turkish Cuisine

Turkish cuisine is a blend of savory, succulent, sugar-coated goodness.  Due to Turkey’s location between Eastern and Western powers Istanbul is a confluence of civilizations culturally, linguistically, and gastronomically.  Think of your favorite ethnic foods.  Greek food is defined by rich cheeses, olives, and marinated meats.  Travel further south to Egypt where you’ll indulge in garlicky hummus and falefel wrapped in warm pita.  Turkey draws from all of these traditions while contributing its own edible creations.  After eating incredible food every day for the past month I wanted to put together a list of the 10 ingredients most commonly found in Turkish cooking.  Read along and grab a napkin in case you start drooling.

1. Cinnamon (tarçın)

When I first told my brother that I was going to be living in Turkey he smiled and said “sis, you have to promise to bring back some cinnamon.”  When our family traveled to Turkey five years ago we wandered aimlessly through the spice market in awe of the mounds of spices unknown to our taste buds.  In an attempt to sample the local flavors we purchased a bag of cinnamon.  When we arrived home I whipped up a batch of cupcakes with a dash of Turkish cinnamon in the batter.  My family and I felt like we had been introduced to a whole new spice.  And we had been.  The cinnamon sold in the United States is called ceylon and is extracted from the shoots of the plant prior to maturity.  Turkish cinnamon, which is called cassia, is made by grinding the cinnamon bark.  Cassia cinnamon is rich and aromatic compared to drab ceylon.

Being a food historian I’ve delved into the history of these ingredients to give you a more robust read.  In the Middle Ages the Arabs had a monopoly on cinnamon which made it extremely expensive.  Those in the upper class sought luxurious goods that would complement their social rank.  These individuals imported spices such as cinnamon to showcase on their tables.  In order to boost prices Arab merchants teased consumers with outlandish tales about the origins of their cinnamon.  Herodotus (the first historian) wrote that huge birds transported cinnamon sticks to their nests which were located on a mountain so high it could not be climbed by humans.  The merchants supposedly lured the birds down with ox meat and when they approached the birds would drop their cinnamon sticks.  Fortunately, cinnamon is not found atop a rocky outcrop inhabited by pterodactyl-like creatures.  Today cassia cinnamon is produced in Sri Lanka and exported to Turkey.  Cinnamon is most commonly used on Turkish salep, a winter drink made with hot, frothy milk and sweetened with orange, rosewater, and cinnamon.  Salep is generally a winter drink but I was able to taste some tonight in a bakery and it was divine.  I had Mia and Aisha try it as well because I found the taste difficult to describe.  The closest description we got was “warm milkshake” but I would say a milkshake is far sweeter than this drink.  It tastes like a white hot chocolate with hints of orange and rose.

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salep with milk, orange, rosewater, and cinnamon

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cinnamon sweets

 

2. Clotted cream (kaymak)

Hands down kaymak is my favorite Turkish food.  It reminds me of sitting with my mother at a cafe in London, spreading clotted cream and jam on a piping hot scone.  But make no mistake, kaymak is not English clotted cream.  Although clotted cream is an English invention kaymak has found its own place on the Turkish breakfast table.  Turkish clotted cream is made with domesticated water buffalo milk.  That’s right.  Some guy has a farm of water buffalo bred specifically to produce this stuff.  The specific buffalo that make the cream are called manda in Turkish.  I have a special spot in my heart for water buffalo so it’s no wonder I could live off of kaymak.

I’ve found that it’s extremely difficult to explain clotted cream to someone that has never tried it.  Kaymak is similar to milk but less of a liquid, and somewhat like whip cream but more solid and sweeter.  Think sweet, whipped butter.  Kaymak is made by boiling buffalo milk and then simmering it over low heat for many hours.  Once cream starts to form it is skimmed off the top and refrigerated.  The cream ferments slightly to give it a sour taste.  The cream keeps for a mere day so it must be consumed immediately.  Did I mention kaymak is 60% fat?  Yeah, it’s heavenly.  Kaymak is always served in a traditional Turkish breakfast and is best paired with sour cherry jam and honey on fresh Turkish pastry.  There is also a dessert called ekmek kadayıfı which is a cake with layers of clotted cream.  I still need to try that one!

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3. Feta

This is where Istanbul’s Greek roots come into play.  Cheese is a Turkish staple but the only kinds I have been exposed to are mozzarella, goat cheese, and feta.  Feta cheese is served at every meal and accompanies nearly every dish.  Ordering kebap at a restaurant?  Feta.  Chicken wrap?  Feta.  Side of fries?  Feta.  The feta here is more creamy than crumbly and is made from sheep’s milk.  I love taking a wedge and putting it on a tomato or cucumber in the morning.

According to Homer, Polyphemus was the first to make feta cheese.  If you’ve read the Odyssey you’ll recall that Polyphemus was a cyclops who also herded sheep.  He stored milk in sheep’s skin but he left the milk in the bag for too long and when he looked inside the milk was curdled.  Although the history of feta is obscure this is actually the leading theory for the origins of cheese and yoghurt.  Storing milk in animal hides allows the liquid to interact with bacteria in the stomach lining to transform it into something new.  The Turks still employ this tactic today when making cheese.  On the streets you can spot large animal hides that house cheese in the making.  The first written record of feta cheese comes from the Byzantine Empire, so it may have origins in modern day Turkey rather than in Greece.  However, the word feta comes from the Italian fette “to slice”.  Regardless of where feta originated, you can’t beat a thick slice of cheese on a seasoned tomato wedge.

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feta always accompanies a Turkish breakfast

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they’re making cheese in there!

4. Tomatoes (domates)

I have never been a fan of tomatoes. I’ve grown them in our garden, I’ve sauteed them with, piled them on noodles, thrown them on salads.  I cannot get into tomatoes.  This changed when I came to Turkey.  The tomatoes are so large you need to use both hands to hold one.  They are also a deep red color all the way to the core and there is less gooey jelly inside.  All meals in Turkey come with a sliced tomato on the side along with a wedge of feta.  Sometimes the tomatoes are grilled but they are usually raw.  These tomatoes are rich and sun ripened and they go well with every Turkish chicken dish that I’ve tried.  I may now be on team tomato.

Tomatoes only appeared in Turkish cuisine in the late 1800s.  However, they have quickly found a home nestled into kebap and tantuni.   Red tomatoes are almost always be found on the table whereas green tomatoes are used for pickling.  The Turks use tomatoes in soups, salads, and delicious sauces.  I wrote about this earlier, but there is a famous Turkish saying that happiness is “a dish cooked in tomato paste by a woman with big hips”!  The spice market is full of mounds of tomato paste and I wish I could take a whole bucket through customs!

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there are always sliced tomatoes

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there are tomatoes in all four of these dishes

5. Pistachio (antep fıstığı)

Pistachio may be the most Turkish of all the ingredients on this list.  Pistachios are native to the Middle East and archaeological evidence suggests that they were eaten in Turkey in 7000 BCE.  Muslim legend claims that pistachios were brought to earth by Adam from the Garden of Eden.  I think it’s safe to say the Turks take their pistachios very seriously.  Pistachios have been used medicinally for toothaches and liver problems.  Like trail mix today, pistachios were a common food eaten by travelers because they have a long shelf life and are easily transported.  And did you know?  Pistachios are not nuts!  They are actually seeds that look like nuts.

Pistachios adorn most Turkish desserts.  They are commonly sprinkled on top of baklava, cakes, and pudding.  Pistachios are also the key ingredient in katmer, which is essentially a fried baklava.  Clotted cream and pistachios are wrapped in philo dough, fried, and topped with butter and more pistachios.  I’m not sure how I’ll ever be able to eat American food again.

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pistachio cake

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pistachio ice cream sprinkled with pistachio

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katmer

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pistachio on all the desserts

6. Rosewater (gülsuyu)

When you eat something with rosewater the word “exquisite” comes to mind.  Rosewater is the delicate, sweet kiss at the end of a Turkish delight that makes you feel like a Byzantine princess.  (Note: this is a terrible analogy, Byzantine princesses were married off as child brides or exiled to remote islands.  Eat rosewater-flavored foods but don’t become a Byzantine princess.)  Rosewater is made from the process of distilling rose petals.  Rosewater is downright romantic.  It gives sweets a subtle hint of rose and the taste gets stronger with each bite.  Rosewater livens up dairy dishes like yoghurt and milk as well as desserts such as rice pudding and cakes.  Putting a hint of rosewater in a dish gives it an extra dimension that is both elegant and fragrant.

7. Sesame Seeds (susam)

The word sesame comes from the Arabic simsim and was widely used by Muslim empires.  The Assyrians had a myth that the gods had drank sesame wine before they created the earth.  The Egyptians ground sesame seeds to use as four and in 5000 BCE people in China burned sesame oil to make soot for ink blocks.  Sesame was believed to have mystical powers as evidence from the expression “open sesame” in the Arabian Nights.

In Turkey sesame is generally used as a garnish on breads.  Simit is traditionally coated in sesame seeds as are croissants and sandwich breads.  Whenever I eat a simit my lap is completely covered in sesame seeds!  There is no proper way to eat these things.  Turks also enjoy tahini, the paste in hummus, which is made of crushed sesame seeds.  (Note: hummus is not Turkish and cannot be found in Turkey.)

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8. Mastic 

As we hiked down a steep, uneven cobblestone road in Assos I stopped part-way down to catch my breath and noticed a conveniently located coffee shop.  I sat down with our program director and one of our professors and they ordered Turkish kahve with mastic.  In Assos, a few hundred kilometers South of Istanbul, mastic flavoring is very popular.  Mastic is a resin that comes from an evergreen tree that grows on one Greek island called Chios.  Mastic has a slippery texture and tastes like a mix of olive oil and mint.  Mastic makes Turkish coffee go down smoother and it softens the taste of the bitter coffee granules.  Because it is so refreshing mastic has been renowned for its ability to reduce plaque.  The resin was popular among women in the Ottoman harem because it gave them fresh breath and white teeth to impress the Sultan.  About half the Turkish coffee shops I have visited offer coffee with mastic but it is also common in ice cream, pudding, and Turkish delight.

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from the top: mastic, sour cherry, pistachio

 9. Pomegranate (nar)

Pomegranate is perhaps the most popular Middle Eastern fruit.  Native to Iran, pomegranate has been eaten in this region since 3000 BCE.  Pomegranates are also said to have been the favorite fruit of Muhammad, which only serves to increase their popularity.  Even King Tut was buried with pomegranates in order to ensure his passage into the afterlife.  And you know if King Tut was into pomegranates they must be something special.  The Ottomans used pomegranates as a stand in for lemons.  Like the pistachio, pomegranates are used as embellishment on Turkish desserts.  I’ve mainly eaten them scattered over pastries.  I’ve also heard from many Turks that pomegranate jam is the most heavenly thing on this planet.  Every time I to into the city I find a jam shop, pop in, and ask nar?  But the answer is always no.  One day I will find this allusive pomegranate jam!

10. Sour cherries (vişne)

I had never eaten sour cherries until I came to Istanbul.  Sour cherries are different from regular cherries and they’re sold side by side in open air markets.  Sour cherries are smaller and a darker red color and, as their name suggests, are tart compared to normal cherries.  Their season is from June to August which means we currently have access to the best sour cherries.  Turks are so enamored with this fruit that they preserve it and make jam so they can eat sour cherries year round.  On campus we drink sour cherry juice everyday.  Sour cherries are also used in rice dishes and in stews.  The Turks aren’t afraid to mix their sweet and savory.

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Şile’de Gidiyoruz

As we start to wind down the trip and pack our luggage there has been a significant shortage of things to blog about.  We haven’t been able to venture into Istanbul so for the past few days Rebecca and Mia and I have further explored Şile.  That’s why this post is titled “Şile’de gidiyoruz” or “we are going to Şile.”  That’s also because I’m excited about being able to form sentences in Turkish!

If you’re new to the blog, we are living at Işık University which is near the town of Şile.  Although Şile is technically in Istanbul it is over an hour away from the city center.  As you drive into Istanbul the landscape is dotted with apartments.  There are multiple construction sites for shopping malls which are literally right next to each other.  Istanbul is a chaotic symphony of Turkish chatter, car horns, and the call to prayer.  The journey from Istanbul to Şile feels like you are traversing space and time.  Şile’s residents live in tiny bungalows on the Black Sea.  The beaches fulfill the cliche of white sand and turquoise waters (which is interesting because turquoise is French for “color of the Turks”).  In Şile everyone is on island time.

Every trip into Şile requires a stop at Mado.  I realize how cruel I am to go on about this ice cream when you haven’t tried any!  Mado is made of goat’s milk and crushed orchid roots, which I learned is a fairly common ingredient in Turkish food.  The dondurma (ice cream) is much denser than normal ice cream to the point that you need to cut it with a knife in order to eat it!  Luckily the cartons had been baking in the sun all afternoon so when they scooped the Mado onto cones sticky goodness starts to drip down your arm.  So far I’ve tried chocolate, vanilla, pistachio, and something like almond.  None of us were really sure about ice cream names in Turkish so we just pointed, saying “bu”, and took our chances.  Luckily everything at Mado is divine.  Rebecca had orange and what we believe was chestnut while Mia ate a mixture of orange and sour cherry.  Sour cherry flavored everything is huge in Turkey, almost as big as pistachios.  Each morning warm bread is served with sour cherry jam that has actual cherries inside.  When you go to the market cherries and sour cherries are separately labeled.  Sour cherries, which are a deep burgundy color, are smaller and more tart than normal cherries.  I don’t think we have anything like this in the states.

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I had a mixture of chocolate and almond.  Mado really likes to put flat pieces of ice cream on a cone rather than scoop it into balls

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me, Mia (England), and Rebecca (Canada) with our dondurma

The best part about Şile is the beach.  If you know me you know I’m not a huge beach person.  However, it’s refreshing to get off campus, eat ice cream with these wonderful ladies, and lay in the sun while studying Turkish.  (Side note: since Mia and Rebecca already speak Turkish they make me do all the ordering and then make fun of me for asking horribly phrased questions about ice cream).  There’s also an Ottoman lighthouse to gaze at while at the beach which means it’s the most historical beach I’ve been to after Gallipoli!  After the beach we always eat in town because a few people have gotten food poisoning from the food served on campus.  Besides, eating cake at Bilir will always trump chickpeas and rice.

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pistachio cake

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some delicious concoction of strawberries (the only ones I’ve found after 4 weeks in Istanbul!)  they drew us some flowers and the Ottoman lighthouse because we spoke Turkish to them

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aside from the cakes Bilir has a gorgeous view (Ottoman lighthouse far right) and the friendliest people

Rebecca and I thought the beach in this part of Şile was nice until today when we ventured beyond the town center to Aquabeach.  We took a cab after Turkish class and immediately wished we had discovered this spot a month ago.  It is much cleaner than the regular beach, the water is clearer, there are fewer people, and there’s a restaurant right on the water.  Rebecca pointed out that this was the first time she felt like she’s been on vacation since we arrived in Turkey.  I agreed!

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the view from the restaurant at Aquabeach

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Rebecca ordered this gorgeous Turkish breakfast. I want to be a Turk so I can eat like this every morning

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…and this is what happens when you order an omelette in Turkey. apparently the Turks don’t know how to make anything at this hour besides Turkish breakfast

Aquabeach is located in a little cove surrounded by cliffs and rock formations.  It was about 90 degrees but there was a steady wind which helped cool us down.  After laying on the beach and studying Turkish we walked along the water to one of the rock formations.  There are caves inside but we weren’t too sure about scaling the rock face to get to them.  After exploring the beach we bravely decided to go swimming.  The sea is so warm!  I would like to point out that this area is free of rip tides so we were safe.  The entire swimming area is fenced off and you can always touch the bottom.  We floated on the water and tried (and failed) to bodysurf the five foot waves.  When we found an aquatic caterpillar-like creature stuck to Rebecca’s swim suit we quickly ran to shore!

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panoramas of the beach

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the waves were quite violent at times

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of course they sell simit on the beach

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Rebecca and I had a lovely time spending five hours on the beach!  My sunburnt nose is proof.  Since we are terrified to eat on campus Rebecca asked the taksi driver to take us to a market where we could buy food to sustain us for the next four days.  Remember what I said about there being no grocery stores in Turkey?  These convenience stores mainly sell produce and dairy products, but yoghurt and apricots are a welcome change.  I love the packaging and the Turkish writing so I took a photo.

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bananas, dried figs, and a bottle of milk which says günlük taze süt or “daily fresh milk”. see, eating is a great way to learn Turkish!

In other news, I finally have the link to the interview!  A few weeks ago I was interviewed on national Turkish television about the program we are doing here.  If you’re curious here is the link!  The entire thing is in Turkish so if you want to skip to our part it starts at 6:25.

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Kadıköy

I have never experienced so much sunshine over such a long period of time.  Each day I wake to a cloudless sky and a view of the Black Sea.  Once I’ve walked to class the temperature is about ninety degrees.  It’s intensely humid but most of the buildings have air conditioning.  Over the past few days it has even hit 100 degrees which has made walking up hills all the more interesting.  Now that I’ve given you an idea of Şile’s typical weather you can imagine how shocked I was to wake at six in the morning to the loudest thunder I have ever heard.  It shook the building and echoed over the Black Sea.  I waited under the covers for Godzilla to shriek!  When I peered out the window it was like looking at a blank wall.  There was so much rain I couldn’t make out the sea, the town, or the tree right in front of the window.  I’m fairly certain this qualifies as monsoon weather.  No power, no internet, nothing to do.

This is my first weekend staying on the campus rather than taking an overnight trip to another part of Turkey.  If you know me you know I don’t take relaxation or boredom very well.  Despite the weather Mia and I took a bus into Kadıköy, which is my favorite part of the city.  It is located on the Anatolian side where we spent the majority of the food tour.  Kadıköy is filled with markets and coffeehouses and many locals to practice Turkish with.  This is also where the majority of Istanbul’s residents work and live, so it feels authentic.

The university shuttle droped us off at the ferry station which is dotted with simit carts.  Mia and I were too famished to walk to the market so I ordered a few while Mia helped some other students navigate Istanbul’s ferry system.  Simit is by far my favorite Turkish food and it will be hard to part with it when I leave Istanbul!  To give you an idea, I ate four simit today.  In fact, that was the majority of what I ate. I have no regrets.  Every morning I grab two, run them through the toaster, and dip them in Turkish honey and sour cherry jam.  When paired with a cup of çay you feel like you can do just about anything.  Simit Seni seviyorum.

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iki simit lütfen!

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Mia is very excited to eat breakfast at 1 pm

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During the food tour two weeks ago we entered the markets in Kadıköy and I saw something glorious.  Fazıl Bey Kahve.  Months ago I found this shop on a website that claimed Fazıl Bey was one of only five places to drink authentic Turkish coffee in Istanbul.  I knew I couldn’t pass up the opportunity to visit Fazıl Bey but the university shuttles are erratic and taxis are expensive, so I figured I would never make it.  When we passed by on the food tour my hope was renewed but I couldn’t stray from the group and I had consumed about three days worth of food, there was no room for coffee.  Today I remembered where Fazıl Bey Kahve was and Mia was nice enough to accompany me.

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I couldn’t tell you why Fazıl Bey is authentic coffee.  In fact, I’m fairly sure the stands on the street sell better coffee than this place.  That doesn’t mean we didn’t have fun, though.  The coffee beans are imported from Brazil and when Mia explained that I am a coffee historian the people working there gave us some of the roasted beans to eat raw.  They were very potent!  They briefly explained how they grind the beans into a fine powder so that it can be added to the coffee rather than filtered through.  While we waited for the coffee Mia and I talked about the activities within the Ottoman coffeehouse such as storytelling, poetry reading, and backgammon.  It almost felt like we were in the Ottoman coffeehouse discussing scholarly topics.

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Mia asked about the coffee cup reading and one of the men working there perked up.  He said he had a little experience reading coffee cups.  This is not an Ottoman tradition but it is fairly common in Turkey today.  Once the Turkish coffee is consumed a pile of sediment remains at the bottom.  You flip the cup over onto the dish and wait for the sediment to run down it and dry.  After this an experienced fortune teller reads your fortune.  Fortune telling is huge in Turkey and the Turks take it very seriously.  Many people see a fortune teller once or twice each month and pay 100 lira ($50) for five minutes!  But Turkish coffee reading is very light and fun compared to those fortune tellers.

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When you look inside the cup you will see two very faint drip marks.  The man told me that I will be faced with a situation that has two possible outcomes.  I will choose the hard path and hold a mistake in my heart (Mia was translating and this is literally what he said, a mistake, we were thinking it was regret).  I will choose the right path and it will be beautiful in the end but the journey will be difficult.  This eerily relates to something Mia and I discussed on the bus about graduate school and it really got me thinking for the rest of the day.  The man then took the dish, where some of the sediment collected, and tipped it so that it was perpendicular to the ground.  Again, two streams of coffee rolled down the dish to reinforce his reading.  When he turned the dish again the drips did not go past the lip, which means the outcome will be favorable.  Obviously fortune telling is all for fun, but I thought it was fascinating!

Unfortunately our final few minutes in Fazıl Bey left a bitter taste in our mouth (no pun intended).  We went to pay from another man and he realized we were English and America.  He told us that he wanted to show us something and we were excited that it might be coffee related.  He grabbed his phone and pulled up pictures of mortally wounded Palestinians and started berating us in Turkish.  Honest to god yelling at us.   I understood from his body language what he was on about and Mia starting yelling back trying to defend us.  He was infuriated because our countries weren’t going anything to stop the bombings.  He said it was our fault personally.  Mia explained that we were just people that didn’t represent an entire government and that we didn’t necessarily agree with what our governments were doing.  Then he kicked us out.  We were absolutely furious.  Here we were having a delightful cup of coffee and it was ruined by horrendous pictures and yelling.  It took an hour or so for the effects of the encounter to wear off.  I would like to point out that these encounters are extremely rare and do not represent Turks as a whole.  Mia has been to Turkey twenty times (no exaggeration) and this is only the second time anything like this has happened to her.

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after our incident I told Mia, “why did we even try Fazıl Bey when this is obviously the best coffee shop in Istanbul?!”

With no plans for the rest of the day we simply walked around the market.  I used cafes that we visited on the food tour as reference points so we wouldn’t get lost.  We noticed that different streets on the market are reserved for specific things like clothes, fruits and vegetables, and pubs.  Down one of the side streets we stumbled upon a bookstore.  I love Turkish bookstores because I can stock up on complicated books that I will one day be able to read.  We were pouring over the novels and all of a sudden Mia pointed out an old box filled with Ottoman writings.   Genuine, original papers from the Ottoman Empire.  This may have been the most exciting moment of the trip for me.  I spent far too long flipping through the delicate papers.  Some of them were a single page, others loosely bound books, and even some newspapers, all written in Ottoman Turkish.  I couldn’t pass up the opportunity to own something that had been created by the hands of an Ottoman.  I can read a few words on each page because they are the same in Arabic but when I start learning Ottoman Turkish I will use these as a reference.

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the sign says “in the box Ottoman books and magazines” for only $5!  the newspaper I bought was pricier but worth it

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all of these are Ottoman, there must have been at least 50 newspapers and books

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the bookstore also had old Ottoman photographs

We spent the majority of the afternoon and evening in a cafe.  Our table was right by a huge open window which provided a view of the market streets.  While sipping ayran Mia and I conversed for hours.  She is so easy to talk to and she is interested in everything.  She also enjoys listening to me rant about the Ottomans, which is an impressive quality!  We also spent this timing reviewing Turkish grammar and afterward I taught Mia the Arabic alphabet.  We wanted some authentic Turkish food but when it arrived it looked very American!  I pointed this out to Mia and she suggested that this is Turkish food because the Turks really don’t eat anything authentic anymore.  It is sad but true!  Tomorrow we are planning to visit some Ottoman ruins and drink more çay regardless of the storm.

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the new “authentic” Turkish food, a chicken wrap and some fries

10 Things That Surprised Me About Turkey

Merhaba!  I realize there has been a significant lack of blog posts this week.  In truth, this week has been quite boring in terms of adventures.  No food tours and no historical sites, just Turkish class and history lectures.  Since I’ve gotten requests for a new post I decided to do a list of the 10 things that have surprised me the most about Turkey.  This also gives me the chance to share some stories and photos that would otherwise be left out of the blog.

1. Animals

I’ve been able to easily satisfy my furry friend cravings in Turkey.  There are so many animals!  Cows wander unto campus and the first day here I saw two endangered turtles.  Some more unpleasant encounters have been with wolf spiders and cockroaches.  Supposedly venomous snakes live in the Black Sea region but unless your jumping head first into a bush you should be fine.  The most common animals to see in Turkey are feral cats and dogs to the point that I almost started a blog called “Cats of Istanbul”.  I made it my goal to take a photo of every single cat I saw.  So far I’ve succeeded, but I promise I won’t share all those photos on here!  For being feral animals the cats and dogs are surprisingly clean and well mannered.  However, that doesn’t mean you should cuddle every one you see.

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feral kedi in Şile

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kedi sleeping in the Ayasofya

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cats in the cemetery of an Ottoman sultan

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Bursa kedi

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the kedi that crawled through our hotel window on the first weekend

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this kedi has it made! he picked the perfect shop to sleep in at the spice market

2. Kind people

The Turks are some of the kindest people I have ever met.  Start with some old fashioned Southern hospitality, combine it with enthusiasm, sprinkled in some humor, add a pinch of jesting, and you have a Turk.  I have yet to meet someone in Turkey who is unkind.  When attempting to take public transportation my friend and I were completely stranded in a part of Turkey where no one spoke English.  A man came out of a cafe and saw that we were in distress.  He bought us a bus ticket and then road the bus with us for two hours to make sure we reached our destination.  Now that is kindness.  Last night we went into Şile for dinner and sat down at a restaurant not realizing that we couldn’t eat anything on the menu (due to allergies and some of us not eating beef).  We didn’t want to leave right away so we ordered some çay so that we would have something to pay for.  When we asked for the bill the owner refused to make us pay for the çay!  We told him it was our culture to pay for something we drank and for messing up his nice table and he said it was his culture to offer it free of charge.  The first weekend in Istanbul I walked into a bookstore to purchase some children’s books to improve my Turkish.  I went to check out and the old man recognized that I was trying to speak to him in broken Turkish.  I think he put two and two together and gave me a huge discount.

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a Bursa local

3.  No grocery stores

I’m that person who makes a trip to the grocery store every day, partially out of a lack of planning but mostly because I love shopping at the grocery store.  Having lived in Turkey for two and a half weeks and travelling the Western half of the country I have yet to encounter a grocery store.  The Turks buy all their food in specialty markets.  Shops either specialize in fish or cheese or they exclusively sell honeycomb or baklava.  I have seen a few convenience stores where you can buy crackers and dried fruit but these are small and uncommon.  The Turks also love to eat at restaurants and the food is dirt cheap.  I’ve eaten everywhere from food stands to white-table-cloth restaurants and I’ve never paid more than 12 lira ($6) for an entire meal.  This is partially because on average Turks only make $12,000/year so food is very affordable.  That being said, if you really wanted a fancy meal you can drop hundreds of lira if you find the right restaurant.

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a specialty fish shop. who needs refrigeration?

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mmm sheep heads…

4. No toilets

Now that we’ve covered food, let’s discuss toilets.  Or a lack of toilets.  Seriously, banyo nerede?!  I have peed in a hole more times than an actual toilet.  I’m not trying to make a fuss about plumbing, I peed in plenty of holes in South Africa and that was no big deal.  I realize that having a sit toilet is a luxury.  But for as modernized as Turkey claims to be it’s a mystery to me why people don’t install more toilets.  They make your customers so much happier!  And on that note, Turkey does not believe in public restrooms.  If you’re on the top of a hill in the middle of the Gallipoli battlefield and you just drank a full bottle of water, good luck.

5. Beautiful views

The natural landscape of Turkey rivals Tuscany and the coasts of Spain.  Turkey is brimming with diverse wildlife and tropical looking flowers.  Western Turkey is also very hilly with many bodies of water like the Black Sea, Sea of Marmara, Bosporus, and countless lakes.  These features combine to create some of the best views you’ll ever see.  I’ve spent a significant amount of time sitting on a rock on the edge of a cliff gazing at the view.  I know you’ve seen some of these pictures before but I want you to see them all in one place.

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the Bosphorus

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view from a restaurant in Şile 

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the Black Sea

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the view of Şile from my room

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on the acropolis in Assos

6. The Ottomans

I’ve found the relationship between modern Turks and the Ottomans to be quite interesting.  The Ottomans ruled the Mediterranean for over 600 years and the empire only collapsed in 1923 which is less than a century ago.  After the collapse Atatürk, the president of Turkey and founder of the Republic of Turkey, wanted to distance Turkey from it’s Ottoman past.  His propaganda portrayed the Ottomans as uncivilized and something to be ashamed of.  He abolished Ottoman Turkish overnight and created the Turkish language by rewriting the script in Latin letters and ridding the language of Arabic and Persion words.  Until very recently the Turks have had a negative view of the Ottoman Empire.  Now the Ottomans are rising in popularity but in a peculiar way.  Instead of looking at the Ottomans from an academic standpoint shop owners have gone ahead and renamed everything after an Ottoman sultan.  You cannot walk a street in the old city without seeing a sign for something like “Suleyman’s Kebap” or “Osman’s Favorite Pide.”

7. Politics

This section of the post is a little grim.  With ISIS advancing in Iraq and Israel bombing the Gaza Strip Turkey thinks of itself as completely isolated.  Turkey has a non-interference policy in the Middle East and in fact does not consider itself part of the Middle East.  Turkey is very “Westernized” (although I despise that term) however Turkey is not part of the West.  I talked to our tour guide about ISIS and what Turkey would do if the boarder was breached.  He was a highly educated and intelligent man, but his response was essentially “that won’t happen so why even discuss it?”  The extent of Turkey’s involvement is limited to protecting refugees.  However, the country refuses to let them work or even rent or buy property.  As a result thousands of Syrian families are living on the streets of Istanbul.  These families were middle class in Syria but in Turkey they are treated like filth.  I accidentally walked into an unofficial refugee camp and was overcome with a feeling of despair.  Living at the University the mentality is much different.  Everyone here is extremely liberal and dissatisfied with the government.  One of my professors actively participates in riots against the oppressive government (which is worse than American news lets on).  Last weekend he was hit with a tear gas canister.  He was with a fellow student who was shot almost at point blank range.  He pushed her out of the way and said that if he hadn’t the canister would have gone right through her torso.  For as beautiful and friendly Turkey is, the country has some deep rooted political problems on the domestic and global scale.

8. English

Let’s get back to lighter topics!  Many cities that specialize in tourism are accessible to English speakers.  While this holds true in areas around the Ayasofya it is impossible to find someone who speaks English in other districts of Istanbul or Şile.  If you speak some Turkish or have a knack for pantomiming then you are on the right track.  Luckily I’ve mastered ordering food off the menu, directing a taxi, and buying books.  However if you want to hold a conversation outside the basic “how are you?” you need proficiency in Turkish.  Although I was told that many Turks speak Arabic this is a complete fallacy.  I’ve only used my Arabic to talk with the Saudis on the trip and one person in the Grand Bizarre.

9. Power Outages

Turkey has the third largest carbon footprint of any country in the world (after the United States and Brazil).  Due to the high demand for power and the multiple locations from which it is drawn Turkey experiences frequent power outages.  I’m talking 10-15 times each day.  There was a huge blackout this morning but class wasn’t cancelled because it is a normal occurrence.  In April a power outage during an election forced voting centers to close early.  The candidates suggested that the outage was intentional but the Energy Minister responded, and I quote, “A cat walked into a transformer unit. That’s why there was a power cut. It’s not the first time this has happened.”  Yes, those damn Istanbul cats.  Between Turkey;s horrendous corruption and the multitude of cats neither of these scenarios would surprise me.

10. Greenery

Like any other metropolis Istanbul boats sleek skyscrapers and a broken public transportation system.  But amid industrial Istanbul lies a surprising amount of greenery, both in landscapes and in wild foliage along major roadways.  When you enter Istanbul the freeways are lined with manicured grass and flowers grown in shapes that spell out Turkish words or mimic Iznik tile patterns.  Istanbul also has a significant amount of parks that line the Bosporus.  When you drive out of Istanbul to Şile you might see a few apartment complexes but the majority of the drive is lined with so much foliage you would think you were in the Amazon.  I’ve seen pine trees, lavender bushes, and rosemary bushes that are twice as big as me!

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a garden shop in Istanbul complete with lemon trees

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a park in Kadıköy

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oak trees in a park in the middle of Istanbul’s city center

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gardens in Iznik

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a man riding his horse down the freeway. behind him: look at all that green!

I hope you enjoyed this unconventional post!  Which entry surprised you most about Istanbul?

 

 

Assos ve Truva

Note: this post covers my visit to Assos and Troy on Saturday, July 12th

Let’s start with a funny story.  Last night we drove ten long hours in a crowded bus.  After Bursa half of us turned around and headed back to campus and the other half braved four more hours on the bus.  I generally judge these experiences by how much I want to brush my teeth.  Let’s just say this bus ride made my list of the top five times in my life I’ve wanted to brush my teeth more than I’ve wanted to wake up alive the next day.  The Turks are on perpetual island time which means stopping every hour for a smoke break or to find a cup of Turkish coffee regardless of the fact that the sun has gone down and we’ve been awake for 17 hours.  Turks also take some creative license when it comes to telling time.  If you ask “how long until we get to the hotel?” the answer will be “thirty minutes” which directly translates to “three more hours”.  I was looking forward to a nice hotel on the beach with wifi so I could update the blog.  We arrived at a glorified shack with doors that don’t fit into the hinges and showers that have never been hooked up to a hot water system.  When we walked into the lobby, which was swarming with mosquitoes, I noticed a massive section of the ceiling, five feet in diameter, that was completely soaked through and dripping on the floor.  The second time we walked through the lobby the hotel staff had conspicuously placed a plant under the dripping ceiling.  I stepped forward to hand over my passport and the entire section of wet ceiling collapsed inches from where I was standing!  I was so exhausted I didn’t even react, and the hotel staff froze as if they hadn’t seen the incident.  Of course the day would not have been complete without a ceiling collapsing!  The next morning we walked through the lobby and there was a gaping hole in the ceiling as if it hadn’t occurred to anyone to fix it.

The next day was infinitely more enjoyable.  After a frozen and invigorating morning shower we drove to Assos on the Aegean Sea.  So far on the trip I have traversed the Bosporus, Marmara, Aegean, and Black seas.  Iznik and Bursa are verdant compared to Assos’s dessert landscape.  Shurbs sparsely decorate the hills and cliffs and olive trees grow right on the beach.  From Assos you can spot the Island of Lesbos which means we were only a short boat ride away from Greece.  Sappho is one of my favorite poets and women in history so I loved being within sight of Lesbos.

Assos has a rich and diverse history.  In the 700s BCE colonists left Lesbos and settled in Assos.  Aristotle visited and fell in love with the King’s daughter, Pythia.  Because he was forbidden to marry Pythia, Aristotle taught in Assos for three years so he could be close to her.  On the acropolis (which means “top of the hill” in Greek) the Greeks constructed a temple to Athena and surrounded the entire city with walls.  In the 14th century after leaving Bursa the Ottomans inhabited Assos, strengthened the city walls, and added a mosque.  Today the slopes of Assos are home to locals who make thyme oil and olive soap.  So far I would have to say that Assos is the most beautiful place we have visited.  Because the elevation is so high compared to the surrounding land you can see across the entire Aegean sea.  We were the only group at the site so we were able to explore the ruins and sit on the cliffs while watching the water.  When you stand on the acropolis you can see why this spot was so desirable, not only because it is beautiful but because of its strategic position and proximity to the harbor.

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what remains of a guard tower in Assos

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Ottoman fortifications

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as you can see the terrain is very rocky

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this cat met us at the bottom of the hill, walked about two kilometers, and then snuggled with us when we reached the top!

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view of the Aegean and the bay. yes, that’s a drop off

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the temple of Athena on the acropolis

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trying to strike a goddess pose…

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on the hike up we drank Turkish coffee which contained mastik (translation “chewing gum”) that only grows on one island in Greece. it tasted a little like coffee with olive oil! very refreshing

By 11:00 we had already arrived in Troy which is 66 kilometers north of Assos.  Troy is in complete disarray for a variety of reasons.  The city was discovered by Heinrich Schliemann in the 1870s and he damaged many of the buildings with his poor excavation techniques.  Schliemann also took one third of all the artifacts within Troy, so everything that remains is basically something he deemed unattractive.  Troy is also located in an earthquake region so everything Schliemann left was eventually knocked down by seismic waves.  I was still excited to see the city even though it is virtually a heap of bricks that archaeologists use to speculate about Troy’s inhabitants.

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this is honestly the only city wall that is still standing

People have been living in Troy for 3,500 years.  Recent archaeological evidence suggests that the Hittites may have built the city, which means it would be even older than previously thought.  Troy used to be near to the sea but due to earthquakes and tectonic activity the sea is now much further away.  Many of you know of Troy from the Iliad or perhaps the Brad Pitt film.  (Please tell me you read the book first, the book is always better.)  There is an ongoing debate about the validity of the Trojan War.  The current consensus is that if a war was fought, the operative word being “if”, then it happened here.  However, there is no compelling evidence to suggest that there was a war between the Greeks and the Trojans.  There were surely skirmishes between the Trojans and invaders but the identity of those invaders is unknown.  The Trojans had an excellent defense system which suggests that they were repeatedly attacked.  The Trojans built their walls sloped so when invaders attempted to climb them they could pour oil over the side to make the wall slick.  When I heard this all I could think was that Jon Snow should have thought of this when the Wildlings were attacking…

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a few structures left in Troy

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a panorama of what remains of Troy

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in the amphitheater

The only way to breach the city was to fight from the inside.  As the Iliad explains, the Greeks gifted the Trojans with a large wooden horse which they hid inside.  When the horse was brought into the city and all the Torjans were drunk the Greeks jumped from the horse and captured the city.  Though most likely a myth, the first thing you see when you walk into Troy is a giant wooden horse that you can climb up.  The horse was designed by a Turkish sculptor using the Iliad as a reference.  The artist used all the tools and materials that would have been available in 3000 BCE.  Although the sculpture doesn’t look like a realistic horse it is certainly realistic for the time!

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So what do you do for the rest of the day in Küçükkuyu?  You go to the olive oil museum, of course!  This was such a bizarre experience.  It was one room that was far too hot to enter.  We hung out in the air conditioned gift shop and explored the tiny garden.  The only reason people come to Küçükkuyu is for olive oil or to pass through on their way to Troy.

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the Turks use olive oil for everything, even hand sanitizer and cologne!  in my opinion it is best eaten with a chunk of rustic bread

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olive oil soap

We spent one more day in Küçükkuyu which I have decided to leave out of the blog.  We spent the entire day at the Gallipoli war monuments and battlefields.  While I understand that this was an important visit it is far too depressing to write about because this blog is supposed to make you smile!  So yes, I went to Gallipoli, it was sad and moving, now back to our next week of Turkish class!

 

Afiyet Olsun Part One

Note: Today’s post is titled “Bon Appetit” in Turkish and covers the food tour I took on Saturday July 5th.

Food history is a fairly new topic in the field of history and examines not only what people actually ate in the past but also the culture and traditions that surrounded food.  While tourists frequent Istanbul for the Ayasofya and the Blue Mosque they rarely realize the diverse food culture that can be experienced on the streets even today.

During the Ottoman period Topkapı Sarayı boasted 10 kitchens and a staff of 1,500.  In 1669 the Imperial Kitchen spent 52.5 million dollars on food alone.  One kitchen produced food exclusively for the Sultan and was equipped with “taste beforehanders” whose job was solely to test for poison.  The Sultan also ate off of golden plates because it was believed that the gold would neutralize poison.  Between the Ottoman past and the confluence of cultures within the city, Istanbul has a rich food history worthy of exploration.  This is why I dedicated an entire day to a food tour that spanned two continents.

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these little loves were napping outside our hotel. the little one fell asleep nursing!

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Our tour covered the serious food of Istanbul: a mix of historical dishes and foods that real Turks eat everyday.  We visited 11 restaurants and markets and tasted at least 15 different foods.  It lasted over 6 hours!  The tour is limited to 6 people and we were certainly lucky.  The people we met were so kind and genuine!  There is nothing like sharing delicious food in good company.

Turkish Breakfast

Our introduction to Turkish food required visiting the spice market and shopping for fresh ingredients.  The spice market is 350 years old and is often called the Egyptian Market because in Ottoman times the spices were brought from India and Egypt.  We visited specialty stalls and purchased local cheeses, honey, pastrami, simit, and olives.  We then walked around the corner to an outdoor cafe with a spectacular view of the gardens and the Suleymaniye Mosque.  At the cafe the chef fixed us eggs and sausage to compliment our market finds.  The eggs are much more yellow than American eggs because in Turkey eggs can only be sold if they are a few weeks old, whereas in the US eggs can sit up to 6 months before being sold!  You can really taste the difference, they are so much fresher.  The sausage that is thrown into the eggs is packed with herbs and spices as well.  My favorite part of the breakfast was the buffalo’s milk clotted cream with Turkish honey (which comes in flavors like pine nut and chestnut).  The clotted cream was so smooth and just sweet enough, perfect to dip your simit into.  Speaking of, simit is the Turkish street bagel that has been popular for 500 years.  In the 15th century there were 45 simit shops in Istanbul.  Simit is quickly dipped in molasses and then rolled in sesame seeds before baking.  The goat’s cheese that we ate is actually fermented in the goat’s intestine which makes it extra sour.  The Turks drink tea with their breakfast instead of coffee.  In fact, the Turkish for breakfast is kahvaltı which means “before coffee”.

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a spice stall in the market. this is history that smells good.

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eggplant skins used to stuff vegetables into. these will come into play later!

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figs in the spice market. figs are not grown in Turkey but Muhammad used them to break his fast so they are quite popular during Ramazan

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buffalo clotted cream. not too heavy with just the right amount of sweetness. heaven on a simit!

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Turkish kahvaltı: çay, simit, clotted cream, eggs and sausage, olives, pastrami, and cheese

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After the Spice Market we crossed the Bosporus to the Anatolian (Asian) side of Istanbul to explore the local markets.  Here we spent the rest of our day in Kadıköy.  In Istanbul the historical sites and businesses are generally located on the European side and the parks and residences make up Kadıköy.

Candy Store

When people think of Turkey and candy they may think of Turkish delight or baklava.  However the Turks are masters of sugar and their desserts are less one-dimensional.  At the candy shop, called Lekevci Cafer Evol, they specialize in candied vegetables.  We had a small plate of candied olives, eggplant, tomatoes, and walnuts, which were actually quite good!  I liked the tomatoes the best.  We enjoyed these on the street with a side of demirhind şerbeti.  The Ottomans made their şerbet with 40 different spices for health reasons, but today it is made with only 20 spices.  It is vaguely reminiscent of a cold apple cider.  In Turkish culture it is customary to offer sweets to a guest, which led to the saying “let’s eat sweet and talk sweet”.

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candied vegetables and demirhind serbeti

Meze

The sweets made us hungry for something savory!  We walked through the market to a world famous restaurant that specializes in meze or appetizers.  This restaurant only serves forgotten Anatolian and Ottoman recipes and the menu changes daily.  Our mezes were red pepper paste with walnuts, chard, smoked yogurt, and mashed fava beans with dill.  This was served with a side of warm bread for dipping.  Turkish food works best when you mix it all together, preferably with some type of bread or rice.  We then dined on eggplant stuffed with rice and pomegranate and a dish of beef with sour cherries.  There is a Turkish saying “food taste better with tomato paste made by a woman with big hips.”  See, I was meant to be a Turk!

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mezes. clockwise from top: fava beans and dill, smoked yogurt, chard, and red pepper paste with walnuts.  the stuffed eggplant can be seen at the top right.

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our lovely tour group! sisters Loretta and Angela (from New York and San Francisco) and husband and wife Nate and Beth from Arizona. of course Linden is here too!

Baklava

Time for more sugar!  This baklava shop has been in business for hundreds of years.  We sampled three types of dessert and one that is unique to Ramazan.  Each baklava contains 35-40 layers of philo dough and butter is spread on each layer.  The baklava is specially cooked over a wood stove with oak which is supposed to bring out the ideal flavor of the baklava.  The other desserts were made of shredded wheat and deep fried dough similar to a churro without the cinnamon.  The Ramazan dessert is a form of rice pudding and is used to break the fast because it is very light weight.  It is made with milk, rose water, coconut, and pistachio.

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 fried dough in all shapes and sizes!

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 the green dessert in the middle is just made during Ramazan

Pickle Shop

Our guide explained that if we ate some pickles it would increase our appetite.  Pickles are popular in the winter time because the Turks enjoy eating their vegetables year round, even if they are a bit salty.  This pickle shop opened in 1935 in a wealthy district where people could pay to buy pickles in a shop rather than making them at home like everyone else.  The shop didn’t have any pickles like we think of them, but it was full of jars of pickled beets, strawberries, pineapples, lemons, carrots, pears, and watermelon!  I only had the courage to try the pickled carrot and it basically just tasted like a salty carrot.

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even pickle jars are protected by the evil eye

Markets

Some of the most beautiful things I saw were just at the markets we walked passed.  Here are some photos.

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the shop owner painstakingly arranges these cherries in rows each morning

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sardines

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remember that goat cheese fermenting in the intestines? here it is in action!

Sandwiches

A few blocks down the street was an outdoor cafe where we ate sandwiches (for lack of a better term) and ayran.  Ayran is a traditional Turkish drink that is a little hard to stomach!  It’s a mixture of yogurt, water, and a significant amount of salt.  I loved it!  It’s surprisingly refreshing on a hot day like today.  The mixture is about half foam and half liquid yogurt.  I can’t remember what the sandwiches were called but they consist of parsley, tomato, and beef wrapped in a very thin bread.  You squeeze lemon over the wrap, take a bite, and then eat an entire leaf of raw arugula separate from the sandwich.  Then you take a sip of ayran and repeat!  Everything nicely compliments each other and fits into the idea that everything on a Turkish table can be mixed and eaten together.  I ate my wrap without beef and the cafe brought us another dish to replace the beef dish.  This was even more delicious: beans blended with tahini and topped with tomatoes, parsley, and a hard boiled egg.

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foaming cups of ayran and raw arugula

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inside the wrap: parsley, beef, and tomato. this shop only minces their meat by hand!

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tahini dish

There’s so much more to the food tour and I want to share all my pictures, but it’s midnight here and I have class in the morning.  Stay tuned for more delicious posts tomorrow!